12 yrs ago according to plans I got from North Dakota St. Re: radiant in floor heat in pole barn? in reply to gregk, 03-06-2010 09:29:16 Isulation is critical there, not really so terrible important below - heat loss down will not be bad, but it is terrible off to the sides. It's a system, you want the whole chunk of floor to be your heat sink, you want the heat to lightly rise striaght up, and you don't want heat to bleed off to the outside of the building - out the sides of the slab or foundation. You want even heat, you want good heat transfer, you want to keep the building cooler than normal but done right it will feel warmer than average, and you dwant it heated all winter long, no turning off for the week, turning on for the weekend. Might work in a warmer climate, but I don't see much that would work well in a cold climate? Leaving parts of the slab without heaters in it means you have cold spots, which messes up the heat flow & will create downdrafts and just generally mess it all up bad. Sand is a poor heat tranfer medium, so they don't recomemend that. A person can feel real warm on a 55-60 degree floor while you feel real cold in a building that is 65 but all the heat is up in the ceiling, with a cold floor. The idea is to heat up the slab of concrete, and let it heat things close to the floor, so you don't waste heating the air way up top. That really isn't the way in-floor heat works in a slab in a northern climate - I'm in Minnesota - and I'd be real scared you would get poor results from that sort of mish-mash setup. Re: radiant in floor heat in pole barn? in reply to dave2, 03-07-2010 03:38:46 Depending on how cold it gets in your area and prices, sand may be an option for you. In my house (100+ years old) part of the floor (warmest part without heating) was hard packed something (harder than dirt but not quite concrete) 3-4 inches of sand for insulation, and hardwood floor over it. No since heating under a work bench or toolbox. Then, put down 2 inch thick foam and 1 inch foam border, reinforce, and fasten your water (heater) tubing keeping it >6 inches from the edge and a foot apart. Form, add 2 inches of gravel, reinforce, and pour it 4ft in from the walls leaving a route to where you'd put your boiler (leaves you 16x28 open). Just an idea, but if I had a 24x36 shop, I'd prepare the whole thing ready for the reinforcing. If it's just a barn or workshop, do you really need to heat the whole floor? What is your idea/s for the building (how warm do you want it)? I'm at work and the pics on the website I was thinking about are not opening on my computer. Good luck.Re: radiant in floor heat in pole barn? in reply to jm., 03-06-2010 09:29:16 Insulate, insulate, insulate, the gift that keeps on giving!Check out a forum called greenbuildtalk and there is a radiant section and some very smart guys on there. My 'loops' are under 250' each (there are 7 loops) and are on 18" centers. I have a Techmar thermostat that monitors the air temp and the slab temp to controll the pump. Radiant is slow to respond but you'll find that a 60 deg. Poly and 2" ridgid foam under slab and maybe double around perimeter. Obviously you can't leave them open but it (radiant) is no comparison to hot air. The new shop in Maine is 38圆4x16.5 with 12x14 doors and once that mass of concrete is heated (your slab) it does not seem to really matter what you do with the doors. In my old shop it didn't matter if you had a NASCAR pit crew opening/closing the door, the heat flushed out fast! That shop was *36x34x16 with 12x12 doors in MD. I have found the complete opposite to be true. Warm floors are REALLY nice when thawing out frozen vehicles. Forced air (or radiators for that matter) will bring the temp up quicker, but the floor will stay cold. You can purchase reflective plastic foundation rolls to use as an underlayment from Agricultural Supplies, Fabric Structures, Equine Buildings, Grain Storage, Livestock Buildings from FarmTek and save a lot of heat fromįloor heat's great if you're not gonna be opening big doors all the time in cold weather, but takes a long time to recover if you are. You will be able to bypass a radiator to heat separate areas if desired by installing a bypass pex line or simply heat everĮverything at a low temp with zero issues either way. You can very easily secure the piping runs everywhere you want heat from the rafters or have separate zones/radiators with the expensive insulated pex tubing layed in the floor in drainage boxes used to run the 4 inch tubing to allow easy repair and installation or simply bury the 4 inch tubing in sand between radiators. With thermostatic valves on the individual radiator and not waste any heat at any time. You will be money and heat ahead purchasing steam radiators converted for hot water use as you can regulate the heat delivered
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